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a moveable feast blog

Crisp-Skinned Spatchcocked (Butterflied) Roast Turkey

11/22/2019

2 Comments

 
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A 14-pound Thanksgiving turkey? Roasted in less than 90 minutes? [Ed. note: You're really jumping the shark with this one.]

No, it's true! This turkey is truly a Thanksgiving life-saver. No wet brining (a nightmare) or basting (keep that oven door closed). Last week's "blog test" bird was so sumptuous the BF forgave me for not serving stuffing with it. 

The secret: butterflying (a.k.a. spatchcocking) the bird and giving it a dry salt brine. You get a crispy, salty skin, juicy meat on the inside, and boy my brother Mike loves the word "spatchcock."


For directions on how to spatchcock a turkey, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt has the perfect walk-through here: www.seriouseats.com/2012/11/how-to-spatchcock-cook-turkey-thanksgiving-fast-easy-way-spatchcocked.html. The bird will have to be prepared this way before you make the dry salt and baking powder brine.

Last year for Thanksgiving, the BF and I hosted six guests and served a 14-pound spatchcocked turkey. Baked it at high heat for 85 minutes. The skin practically cracked when you picked at it, the meat was succulent and moist. This is now the one and only way I ever roast chicken or turkey.

Need further testimony? Serious Eats' Lopez-Alt explains, "Spatchcocking is a method of removing the turkey's backbone to flatten its body prior to putting in the oven. This flatter shape ensures that the meat cooks more evenly and more quickly, allowing the legs to reach a safe temperature without overcooking the breast. The result is hands-down the easiest, most reliable route to a juicy, moist turkey with incredibly crisp skin. It may not look like a traditional Thanksgiving centerpiece, but your tastebuds will certainly thank you."


The BF, Marlowe and I thank you and wish you all a very Happy Thanksgiving!

​NOTES:
  • For perfectly cooked turkey, always use a good thermometer. I use a Thermapen. It has saved my butt from overcooked meats too many times to count.
  • Start the dry brine at least 24-48 hours prior to roasting​. The longer the brine, moister the meat.

PS: A year ago we geared up for the holidays with this gingerbread roll with eggnog whipped cream (www.moveablefeast.me/blog/gingerbread-roll-with-eggnog-whipped-cream). Everyone wants a log. [Ed. note: From Blammo™.]
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Adapted from: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, Serious Eats
Number of servings: 10-12

Directions - Butterflying/Spatchcocking Turkey
www.seriouseats.com/2012/11/how-to-spatchcock-cook-turkey-thanksgiving-fast-easy-way-spatchcocked.html

Ingredients - Dry-Brine (prepare 24-48 hours ahead of time)
  • ½  cup of Diamond Crystal kosher salt, or six tablespoons Morton's kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons of baking powder
Directions
  1. Combine ½ cup of Diamond Crystal kosher salt (or six tablespoons Morton's kosher salt) with two tablespoons of baking powder in a bowl.
  2. Carefully pat your turkey dry with paper towels.
  3. Generously sprinkle salt mixture on all surfaces: pinch mixture between your thumb and fingers, hold 6-10 inches above the bird, and sprinkle mixture as evenly as possible. Turkey should be well coated with salt, though not completely encrusted. (NOTE: You will most likely not need all of the salt. In some cases, half will be okay; it depends on the size of your bird and your salt preferences.)
  4. Transfer the turkey to a rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, and refrigerate, uncovered, for 24-48  hours. 

Ingredients​ - Turkey
  • 2 large onions, roughly chopped 
  • 3 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped 
  • 2 stalks celery, roughly chopped 
  • 8-10 thyme sprigs
  • 1 whole turkey (12-14 pounds), butterflied according to the instructions above, backbone, neck, and giblets reserved (if you're making gravy)
  • 1 tablespoon grapeseed or vegetable oil

Roasting Directions
  1. Preheat oven to 450 °F. Adjust oven rack to middle position.
  2. Line a rimmed baking sheet or broiler pan with aluminum foil.
  3. Scatter onions, carrots, celery and thyme sprigs across bottom of pan. Place slotted broiler rack or wire rack directly on top of vegetables.
  4. Pat turkey dry with paper towels and rub on all surfaces with 1 tablespoon oil. Tuck wing tips behind back. Place turkey on top of rack, arranging so that it does not overlap the edges, pressing down on the breast bone to flatten the breasts slightly.
  5. Transfer turkey to oven and roast, rotating occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the deepest part of the breast registers 150 °F, and thighs register at least 165 °F, about 80 minutes for a 14-pound turkey.
  6. When turkey is done, remove from oven and transfer rack to a new baking sheet. Allow to rest at room temperature [Ed. note: ROOM TEMPERATURE] for 20 minutes before carving.
  7. Carefully pour any collected juices from roasting pan through a fine-mesh strainer into a liquid measuring cup. Skim off excess fat and discard. Presto, gravy.
  8. Carve it!
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2 Comments

Apple Pie Bars

11/16/2019

6 Comments

 
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I probably drive the BF crazy [Ed. note: like no one else, and for some reason I can't help myself], but I start asking him to choose his birthday cake-dessert about a month before his birthday. Usually give a choice of some great found recipe that includes either apples, caramel, butterscotch or lemon. Love hunting for the perfect recipe, with the goal of getting his eyes to bug out.

These apple pie bars are a client favorite, and whenever I make them the BF ends up in the kitchen, plaintively staring and asking if there are "extras." [Ed. note: "Oh those were for the clients?"] Needless to say the dessert has become one of his favorites, so I decided to make it for his birthday in lieu of a traditional cake. This was a very special birthday, by the way. [Ed. note: #LOLOLD]

One of the great things about this dessert is the shortbread dough is used for both the bottom crust and crumble on top. (Meaning there's no pie crust to roll out.) As the brilliant Ina Garten likes to say, "How easy is that?"

To really send it over the top, drizzle the bars with gooey caramel (optional, but recommended). Perfectly okay to eat with your hands, or dish/bowl them up with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
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In addition to offering an alternative to your everyday pedestrian cookie, these bars have another perk: they travel well. Simply wrap up the baking pan and cut the bars when you get to your destination. As for optimal portion size, Garten advises, "I cut the bars in fairly large 3 x 3-inch squares if I'm serving them on a plate with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side. If I'm serving them on a platter of small petits fours to pick up with your fingers, I'll cut them in smaller bite-size pieces."

NOTES:
  • You can cut this recipe in half  by preparing it in an 8 x 8-inch pan.
  • After baking, cool completely, wrap tightly and store at room temperature for up to two days.  Great for birthdays, every day, and is a perfect make-ahead dessert for Thanksgiving.​

PS: Speaking of Thanksgiving, a year ago we were thinking ahead with this whipped cranberry butter (www.moveablefeast.me/blog/whipped-cranberry-butter). Also, Adam Sandler sings!

PPS: Another client-approved holiday-time dessert, your friends and family won't know this yummy mini pumpkin cheesecake is sugar-free and low-carb. That is, unless you tell them. So don't. (www.moveablefeast.me/blog/mini-pumpkin-cheesecake-sugar-free-and-low-carb)
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Adapted from: Ina Garten, Cooking For Jeffrey
Number of Servings: Makes one 9 x 13-inch pan

Ingredients
Crust
  • 1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature [Ed. note: ROOM TEMPERATURE]
  • ¾ cup granulated sugar
  • ½ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
  • 4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
  • ½ cup chopped walnuts
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Apple Filling
  • 3 pounds Granny Smith apples, peeled, quartered, cored, and sliced ⅛-inch thick (6 large)
  • 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • ¼ cup granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
To Serve
  • Vanilla ice cream
  • Caramel sauce

Directions
Crust
  1. Place a rack in the center of oven and preheat to 375 ºF. Line a 9 x 13-inch baking pan with parchment paper so that paper hangs over two edges of the pan by about two inches. This will make the pie bars easier to remove after it’s baked.
  2. Place the butter, granulated sugar, brown sugar, and vanilla in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed for 2 minutes, until light and creamy. Sift the flour and salt together and, with the mixer on low, slowly add to the butter-sugar mixture, beating until combined.
  3. Scatter ⅔ of the dough, in clumps, into your baking pan, and press it lightly with floured hands on the bottom and ½ inch up the sides. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.
  4. Bake for 18-20 minutes, until crust is golden brown. Set aside to cool.
  5. Put mixing bowl with the remaining dough back in the mixer, add walnuts and cinnamon, and mix on low speed to combine. Set aside.
  6. Reduce the oven to 350 ºF.
Apple Filling
  1. Combine the Granny Smith apples and lemon juice into a very large bowl. Add granulated sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg and mix well.
  2. Melt the butter in a large (10-inch-diameter) pot, add the apples, and simmer over medium to medium-low heat, stirring often, for 12-15 minutes, until apples are tender and the liquid has mostly evaporated.
  3. Spread the apples evenly over the crust, leaving a ½-inch border.
  4. Pinch medium pieces of the remaining dough with your fingers and drop them evenly on top of the apples (they will not be covered). Bake for 25-30 minutes, until the topping is browned. NOTE: I sometimes place the pan under the broiler to get the topping a little more browned.  Watch carefully so it doesn't burn.
To Serve
  1. Cool completely and cut into bars.
  2. Drizzle with caramel and serve with ice cream, or just pick 'em up with your hands.
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6 Comments

Pommes Duchesse (French Piped Potatoes)

11/8/2019

2 Comments

 
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Pommes Duchesse. Sounds fancy. Looks fancy. But really, this is simply a fun way of "piping" mashed potatoes into a baking dish, just in time for the Thanksgiving countdown (in my book, never too soon).

These potatoes are an always-requested Thanksgiving staple in our household, and also a perfect accompaniment to any poultry or red meat (as one of our relatives is not fond of turkey). Another regular vegetarian guest annually asks, "You're making the potatoes, right?"

Looking more elegant than regular mashed, they work well for any special occasion, and aren't any more difficult to make. [Ed. note: Don't say this to your guests. Lie. Lie and tell them it took you months to prepare this and those ingrates should kiss the ground you walk on and okay I'll shut up.]

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The original recipe calls for piping the potatoes into eight puffs of potato swirls. Those are glorious, and I've made them that way many times, but here I decided to freestyle the swirls and  just make a decorative pattern in the baking dish. Either way you decide to do it, it's good.

If you don't have a pastry bag and a piping tip, just spoon the mashed potatoes into the baking dish and create decorative swirls with the tines of a fork. The end result will still be crispy on the outside and soft and buttery on the inside.

However you decide to present them, Pommes Duchesse will be an impressive addition to any holiday (or everyday) feast.

PS: A year ago we were feeling pretty healthy with this butternut squash soup with red curry croutons (www.moveablefeast.me/blog/butternut-squash-soup-with-red-curry-croutons).
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Adapted from: Geoffrey Zakarian, The Kitchen (Food Network)
Number of servings: 8

Ingredients
  • 2 pounds (about 4 medium) russet or Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • ¼ cup heavy cream 
  • 1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the baking dish
  • 2 egg yolks 
  • ½ cup finely grated Gruyere cheese (if you're adverse to Gruyere, try finely grated Parmesan)
  • Freshly grated nutmeg

Directions
  1. In a large pot, combine the potatoes, 1 teaspoon salt and enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer until fork tender, 10-12 minutes. Drain potatoes and then press through a ricer or food mill back into the pot they were cooked in. Place over low heat for a few minutes to dry the potatoes.
  2. Heat the cream and ½ stick of the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat until the butter melts and the cream is warm but not hot. Stir mixture into the potatoes. Mix in the egg yolks and season with salt and pepper. Add cheese and nutmeg.
  3. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Grease a medium baking dish with butter.
  4. Melt the remaining ½ stick butter in a small pot over low heat (or the microwave).
  5. Fill a piping bag fitted with a large-star tip with the mashed potatoes. Into the prepared baking dish, pipe the potatoes in a circular motion, about 3 inches in diameter, starting from the outside and filling in a circle. Finish by piping upwards for a nice swirl on top. Repeat to fill the entire baking dish. Brush each circle with the melted butter.
  6. Bake in oven until golden brown, 30-40 minutes.
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2 Comments

Mini Pumpkin Cheesecake (Sugar-Free and Low Carb)

11/17/2018

0 Comments

 
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The BF and I recently had a wonderful dinner at a neighbor's house. Husband and wife (turns out she and the BF went to the same university and graduated a year apart) and their two adorable children. The wife made a special request for something sugar-free and low carb, something I always try to pull out of the proverbial hat over the holidays.

So besides the normal sugar-full monstrosity that sent the kids (and BF) spinning [Ed. note: GERPH SNORG FLEEGLE NOP], I presented a version of this pumpkin cheesecake to the wife.

"Honey, you have to try this," she gasped at her husband. Soon, everybody was taking a small forkful.

The husband and my BF, bless them, went from sumptuous satisfied grins to quizzical bewilderment. The husband cocked his head, "This is...sugar...free?" No wonder, it really did taste like a decadent cheesecake.

The BF likes to say these are "weapons." [Ed. note: As in, people, including or especially kids, will not question whether or not the dish has a particular ingredient until you tell them.] When time allows, I experiment and make us sugar-free-grain-free-low-carb desserts (or similarly constructed main dishes) and the BF will say, "It's okay, but it tastes healthy." Kiss of death. So when something gets the "weapon" seal of approval, it must be shared. The pumpkin cheesecake will definitely make an appearance on this year's Thanksgiving dessert table.

Many have even asked me to post more sugar-free, low carb desserts, so rest assured, there will be more to come.

A big reason why this cheesecake and other such desserts can now be made: sugar substitutes have come a long way in the last 30 years. Had never found one that I liked for baking, until stumbling on a product called Swerve (swervesweet.com/products), which comes in granulated, powdered-confectioners, or brown form. This is not a sponsored post, simply have made countless desserts with it and the performance screams "real thing." Will bet you can't tell the difference.

You can purchase Swerve online, or I have been lucky enough to find in my local grocery store. Am sure you could try a different brand, but I highly recommend this one and can't vouch for other brands in the final outcome of this particular dessert.

The original recipe for this mini cheesecake says it serves two, but for the aforementioned dinner it was cut into four small pieces and was a perfect ending to the meal. Made a few tweaks to the original recipe from the blog All Day I Dream About Food: upped the cream cheese filling just a bit and doubled the whipped cream topping.

For people who count their Net Carbs, half of this cheesecake is only 3 Net Carbs.
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Number of servings: 2 large or 4 small
Adapted from: All Day I Dream About Food for Swerve, The Ultimate Sugar Replacement
(swervesweet.com/products)

Ingredients
Crust
  • 3 tablespoons almond flour (Bob's Red Mill super fine was used here)
  • 1 tablespoon Swerve (granular)
  • 2 pinches salt
  • 2 teaspoons melted butter
Filling
  • 4 ounces cream cheese, softened
  • 2 ½ tablespoons Swerve (confectioners) 
  • 2 ½ tablespoons pumpkin puree 
  • 1 ½ tablespoons beaten egg (reserve remaining egg for another use, like an omelet!) 
  • ½-¾ teaspoons pumpkin pie spice 
  • ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
Topping
  • 4 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
  • 4 teaspoons Swerve (confectioners) 
  • Dash vanilla extract

Directions
Crust
  1. Preheat oven to 325 °F. Lightly butter the bottom and sides of a 4-inch springform pan. 
  2. In a small bowl, whisk together the almond flour, Swerve, and salt. Add melted butter and stir until it begins to clump together. Press into the bottom of the prepared pan and bake 8-10 minutes. Remove and let cool while preparing the filling.
Filling
  1. Reduce oven temperature to 300 °F. 
  2. In a medium bowl, beat the cream cheese with the sweetener until well combined. Beat in the pumpkin puree, egg, pie spice, and vanilla extract until well combined. 
  3. Spoon the batter over the crust and smooth the top. Bake 20-30 minutes, until edges are set and the center just jiggles slightly when shaken. Remove and let cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate at least one hour. Run a sharp knife around sides of the pan before releasing the spring.
Topping
  1. Whip the cream with sweetener and vanilla until it holds stiff peaks. Spread over the chilled cheesecake.
0 Comments

Whipped Cranberry Butter

11/14/2018

0 Comments

 
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Wasn't always a traditionalist when it comes to Thanksgiving. Blame it on the past childhood Thanksgivings where three kinds of herring, chopped liver, and Japanese pickled radish were the stars of the show (covered to some extent here www.moveablefeast.me/blog/butternut-squash-latkes), instead of turkey.

For years I felt compelled to make Thanksgiving dishes that were "different." For instance, one year I made savory parmesan bread pudding, cider-brined turkey with star anise and cinnamon, whipped yams with chipotles, and Indian-spiced creamed spinach. On their own, these dishes were delicious. Delicious, but not Thanksgiving fare.

These days I cook most of the meal in a traditional way, but will still experiment and make one or two new recipes (can't help myself). Over the years, a few of them have stuck, like this whipped cranberry butter. The BF and I loved it immediately [Ed. note: can confirm], and it has now become part of our tradition. Deliciously sweet, tart and zesty, with a gorgeous, vibrant color. Last year, it was served with mini pumpkin popovers, and yes we're repeating it this year [Ed. note: aww yeah].

If you feel like trying something a little "different" for this year's Thanksgiving feast, this is worth a try. Any leftover butter can be added to toast, pancakes or roasted brussels sprouts the following week.

Hope everyone's turkey-day prep is going well!

NOTE: I make my cranberry sauce a few days before Thanksgiving so am not overwhelmed the day of, and always make extra specifically for this butter.

PS: One year ago we were feeling healthy with these (www.moveablefeast.me/blog/brussels-sprouts-with-red-black-grapes).
Number of servings: Makes about 1 ½ cups 

Ingredients
  • 1 cup salted butter, room temperature (Kerrygold butter was used here)
  • ⅔ cup cranberry sauce (homemade or store bought)

Directions
  1. ​Add butter to the bowl of a food processor (or place in bowl and use hand mixer). Pulse until butter is smooth. 
  2. Add cranberry sauce and puree until mixture is incorporated (or beat with hand mixer until cranberries are incorporated into butter and mixture is fluffy)
  3. Place in refrigerator. Take out at least 2-3 hours before serving so it's spreadable.
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Butternut Squash Soup with Red Curry Croutons

11/7/2018

6 Comments

 
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Well we survived midterms [Ed. note: Anyone get the license plate of that truck that hit us?] and now, more importantly, it's two weeks until Thanksgiving!

It is never too soon to plan the meal. Right now I have a rough menu outline, but so far the only certainty is that this soup will start the evening off, either in a bowl or as soup shooters (shot glass).

Have made a bazillion different kinds of butternut squash soup over the years, but this is "The One." Velvety, flavorful, filling, but not heavy. You'll swear there's cream in there. There isn't. You can even make this dairy-free/vegan by omitting the butter and substituting olive oil. Full disclosure, I tend to tinker with recipes to tailor it to my or the BF's taste, but this recipe, didn't change a thing [Ed. note: wut].

The soup works well on its own, but if you want to kick the flavor up a notch I suggest adding the red curry croutons. (Butternut squash and red curry are a match made in heaven.) Another handy tip, I find the hand-immersion blender very convenient, but if you want a truly smooth, velvet consistency, break out the big guns, your "serious" blender, and mix like you mean it.

PS: Don't want to give away any secrets, but someone's birthday is coming up [Ed. note: wut]. Last year I didn't mess around and broke out Batman and the Joker for a positively killer caramel apple cake (www.moveablefeast.me/blog/caramel-apple-cake).

PPS: Marlowe is very happy if you voted!
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Adapted from: Corky, Lori, Dana and Tracy Pollan, The Pollan Family Table (soup) and Woks of Life (croutons)
Number of servings: makes about 2 quarts (4-6)

Ingredients
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
  • ½ cup peeled and chopped carrots
  • ​2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
  • 7 cups peeled, seeded, and diced butternut squash, cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 4 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
  • 2 pinches ground nutmeg
  • Kosher salt
Optional Topping
  • 2 tablespoons raw or roasted shelled pumpkin seeds (pepitas) I like roasted, salted.
Curry Butter Croutons
  • ½  loaf crusty bread, such as sourdough
  • 2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature [Ed. note: ROOM TEMPERATURE]
  • ½-1  tablespoon red curry paste (depends on your spice level)
  • ½  tablespoon honey

Directions
  1. In a large stockpot over medium heat, melt the butter. Add onion and carrots and sauté until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and ginger and stir for 30 seconds. Add the butternut squash and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes.
  2. Pour in vegetable broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft, 15 to 20 minutes.
  3. Remove the stockpot from the heat and allow soup to cool until no longer steaming. Working in batches, ladle the soup into a blender (place a towel on top when blending to avoid hot splashes) or food processor and blend on high until smooth. Pour pureed soup into a clean pot. (As an alternative you can use a handheld immersion blender and blend soup in the pot.)
  4. Return soup to the heat and add nutmeg, 2 teaspoons of kosher salt, and black pepper to taste. Stir to blend well and simmer until hot.
  5. Ladle soup into individual bowls and top each serving with 1 teaspoon of pumpkin seeds and croutons (if using). 
Curry Butter Croutons
  1. Preheat oven to 425 °F.
  2. Cut bread into thick slices. Combine the softened butter, red curry paste, and honey in a small bowl, and mix until thoroughly combined.
  3. Spread the toast slices with butter and bake until light golden brown, flipping slices once halfway through to ensure both sides are evenly toasted.
  4. Cut into croutons, and serve over the soup. 
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6 Comments

    Author

    I'm Jacquie, personal chef & recipe developer in the beautiful Pacific Northwest. ​Living life with my wildly funny boyfriend and dog Marlowe. Lover of books, bourbon, chocolate and movies.​

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